Want to really know how far out of level or plumb things are? With the How Far Out Level Gauge you can quit guessing! Installs quickly onto almost any level, snaps on and off magnetically.
This product is great and does exactly what it says it supposed to do. The only issue I have is no where in the description does it say that you have to order additional pieces for it to work with the pictured Stabila levels. I would have ordered the Stabila and calves if I would’ve known
I want to like this product but there is one caveat. The differentiation in level is no good if you use a 4' level over an 7' surface the tool only gives you the difference at 4'. Thus I have to use some math and calculations to ascertain what the real differential is over 7". Too time consuming. A digital version! Now that would be a different story. I would buy that in a heartbeat. Quick with no calculations
RESPONSE:
Hi Steve,
It's true, the How Far Out gauge cannot transform your four foot level into a seven footer..:-) The best way to survey any surface, whether you have this product or not, is with a level as near as possible to the full length of that surface. So, whether use use the How Far Out gauge or not, the main difficulty in the scenario you describe lies in the fact that the length of your level is not ideal for the task at hand.
That said, your observation brings up an interesting point and a useful alternate method of work. The How Far Out gauge actually performs two useful functions: besides providing an accurate measurement of the distance the end of the level has been spaced from the surveyed surface, the leveling screw first allows you to accurately and solidly position your level, a task that would be far more difficult and uncertain to perform by just nudging it away with one hand while you simultaneously try to read the bubble and also eyeball the gap.
This struggle-free ability to hold the level in a perfect position enables you to follow the same method of surveying an opening much larger than your level that land surveyors use to plot elevations of distant points. As you know, surveyors measure as far as their transit, rod, and the topography allow, and then note a measurement of the elevation at that point. They repeat the procedure from the first point to the next, and so on, and then use the sum of the multiple elevation measurements to determine the relative difference in grade between the first and last points of the survey.
Let's employ this method to your sample case, again with the understanding that a longer level is the best solution, and that this is a practical work-around to enable you to get the most from the 4' level if it's all you have. We'll suppose that the 7' side jamb leans out from plumb at the top. You would start with the 4' level pressed up to the top of the opening and with the How Far Out gauge deployed at the top of the level. Next, you'd use the screw to position the level dead plumb, and then note the distance on the gauge. Then you'd make a reference mark on the jamb at the bottom of the level. (Let's say the measurement you read on the gauge is 3/16".)
Next, you would set the bottom of the level on the ground and then re-adjust the screw until the level is perfectly plumb again at this second location. This time, instead of reading the gauge, which is higher than the reference mark you made, you would use your tape to measure the distance between the level and the side jamb at the height of the mark. This, of course, would be much more difficult to do if you had to maintain the perfect position of the level with just your hand while you positioned yourself to be able to read the bubble. (Let's say the measurement you read on your tape is 1/8".) Finally, you'd add the two measurements you got together, and you would know that the side jamb is leaning out exactly 5/16", from top to bottom.
Sort of a hassle, yes. But, like the lyric of an old Phoebe Snow song, "Compared to what?" The basic problem here is not the design of the gauge, but rather the fact that you need to carry a jamb level to be really efficient in this case. You say that you would be interested in a digital version of the gauge. When you think it through, this would not actually help at all. Even if it had a built-in calculation function, the result could only be theoretical and based on the uncertain premise that the leaning jamb was straight.
Bottom line,
Great
This product is great and does exactly what it says it supposed to do. The only issue I have is no where in the description does it say that you have to order additional pieces for it to work with the pictured Stabila levels. I would have ordered the Stabila and calves if I would’ve known
Response: Thanks for the feedback!
Read the response to Steve’s review
I bought this based on Steve’s 2 star review not for what he said but the epic! Response and directions in how to use it.
Response: Thanks, Tom : )
little problem
I want to like this product but there is one caveat. The differentiation in level is no good if you use a 4' level over an 7' surface the tool only gives you the difference at 4'. Thus I have to use some math and calculations to ascertain what the real differential is over 7". Too time consuming. A digital version! Now that would be a different story. I would buy that in a heartbeat. Quick with no calculations
RESPONSE:
Hi Steve, It's true, the How Far Out gauge cannot transform your four foot level into a seven footer..:-) The best way to survey any surface, whether you have this product or not, is with a level as near as possible to the full length of that surface. So, whether use use the How Far Out gauge or not, the main difficulty in the scenario you describe lies in the fact that the length of your level is not ideal for the task at hand. That said, your observation brings up an interesting point and a useful alternate method of work. The How Far Out gauge actually performs two useful functions: besides providing an accurate measurement of the distance the end of the level has been spaced from the surveyed surface, the leveling screw first allows you to accurately and solidly position your level, a task that would be far more difficult and uncertain to perform by just nudging it away with one hand while you simultaneously try to read the bubble and also eyeball the gap. This struggle-free ability to hold the level in a perfect position enables you to follow the same method of surveying an opening much larger than your level that land surveyors use to plot elevations of distant points. As you know, surveyors measure as far as their transit, rod, and the topography allow, and then note a measurement of the elevation at that point. They repeat the procedure from the first point to the next, and so on, and then use the sum of the multiple elevation measurements to determine the relative difference in grade between the first and last points of the survey. Let's employ this method to your sample case, again with the understanding that a longer level is the best solution, and that this is a practical work-around to enable you to get the most from the 4' level if it's all you have. We'll suppose that the 7' side jamb leans out from plumb at the top. You would start with the 4' level pressed up to the top of the opening and with the How Far Out gauge deployed at the top of the level. Next, you'd use the screw to position the level dead plumb, and then note the distance on the gauge. Then you'd make a reference mark on the jamb at the bottom of the level. (Let's say the measurement you read on the gauge is 3/16".) Next, you would set the bottom of the level on the ground and then re-adjust the screw until the level is perfectly plumb again at this second location. This time, instead of reading the gauge, which is higher than the reference mark you made, you would use your tape to measure the distance between the level and the side jamb at the height of the mark. This, of course, would be much more difficult to do if you had to maintain the perfect position of the level with just your hand while you positioned yourself to be able to read the bubble. (Let's say the measurement you read on your tape is 1/8".) Finally, you'd add the two measurements you got together, and you would know that the side jamb is leaning out exactly 5/16", from top to bottom. Sort of a hassle, yes. But, like the lyric of an old Phoebe Snow song, "Compared to what?" The basic problem here is not the design of the gauge, but rather the fact that you need to carry a jamb level to be really efficient in this case. You say that you would be interested in a digital version of the gauge. When you think it through, this would not actually help at all. Even if it had a built-in calculation function, the result could only be theoretical and based on the uncertain premise that the leaning jamb was straight. Bottom line,